Bathroom Renovation Electrical Requirements Melbourne

The Complete Bathroom Electrical Checklist

1. Safety Switch (RCD) Protection

Every circuit serving a bathroom must be protected by a safety switch (RCD). If your home was built before 1991, there is a good chance your bathroom circuits are not RCD-protected. A renovation is the ideal time to bring these circuits up to current standards. We install 30mA Type A RCDs as standard. Read our full guide on what a safety switch is and why you need one.

2. Lighting

All light fittings in the bathroom must have an appropriate IP (Ingress Protection) rating for their zone. Fittings directly above a shower or bath (Zone 1) require a minimum of IPX4. Recessed LED downlights are the most popular choice in Melbourne bathroom renovations, typically 3 to 5 fittings depending on the room size. We recommend 4000K colour temperature for bathrooms as it provides clear, natural light for grooming. Consider a separate circuit for a heat lamp or IXL Tastic unit, which draws significantly more power than standard lighting. See our LED lighting installation page for more on downlight options.

3. Exhaust Fan

A properly ducted exhaust fan is essential for moisture control and preventing mould. The fan should be ducted to the outside of the building, not just into the roof space. In Melbourne’s climate, where winter condensation is a constant issue, we recommend a fan rated to at least 150mm duct diameter for a standard bathroom. The fan can be wired to a separate switch, a timer, or connected to the light switch with an overrun timer so it continues running for 5 to 10 minutes after you leave the room.

4. Power Points

Power points cannot be installed in Zone 1 (within 1.2 metres of the shower or bath). Beyond Zone 1, power points must be RCD-protected and positioned at least 300mm above the floor. Most bathroom renovations include one or two power points adjacent to the vanity for hair dryers, electric shavers, and electric toothbrushes. We recommend positioning them at 1,100mm above floor level, which puts them just above the typical vanity height.

5. Heated Towel Rail

Hardwired heated towel rails need a dedicated connection point behind the rail and a switch outside the bathroom (or a fused spur). Many homeowners choose a plug-in model, but hardwired units look cleaner and avoid having a cord visible. Your electrician needs to know the location of the towel rail before the walls are closed up, so the cable can be run inside the wall during the rough-in stage.

6. Underfloor Heating

Electric underfloor heating is increasingly popular in Melbourne bathrooms. The heating mat or cable is laid by the tiler, but the electrical connection must be done by a licensed electrician. Underfloor heating requires its own dedicated circuit and an RCD, plus a thermostat with a floor sensor. The thermostat is typically recessed into the wall outside the bathroom. The electrician needs to run the cold tail cable from the heating mat location to the thermostat position before the tiler begins.

7. Mirror Lighting and Shaver Sockets

Backlit mirrors and illuminated mirror cabinets require a connection point behind the mirror. If you are choosing a mirror with integrated lighting, provide the specifications to your electrician before the rough-in so the cable can be positioned in the right location. Some illuminated mirrors include a shaver socket, which has its own isolation transformer for safety.

8. Switchboard Capacity

A bathroom renovation often adds significant electrical load: underfloor heating, a Tastic unit, heated towel rail, and additional lighting can easily add three or four new circuits to your switchboard. If your switchboard is already nearing capacity, a switchboard upgrade may be needed as part of the renovation. It is far better to identify this early than to discover it when the tiler is waiting.

When Does the Electrician Need to Be On Site?

The electrical work in a bathroom renovation typically happens in two stages. Understanding this timeline helps you coordinate with your builder, plumber, and tiler so nobody is waiting around.

First fix (rough-in): This happens after demolition and before waterproofing. Your electrician runs all new cables through the walls, ceiling, and floor. This includes cabling for lights, exhaust fan, power points, heated towel rail, underfloor heating, and any other fixtures. The underfloor heating cold tail and thermostat cable must be in place before the tiler lays the heating mat. This stage typically takes half a day to a full day depending on the scope of the renovation.

Second fix (fit-off): This happens after tiling and painting are complete. Your electrician returns to install the light fittings, switches, power points, exhaust fan, and connect the underfloor heating thermostat and heated towel rail. This stage also takes approximately half a day. The electrician issues a Certificate of Electrical Safety for all the work.

Between the two stages, the plumber, waterproofer, tiler, and painter complete their work. A well-coordinated renovation avoids costly delays where one trade is waiting for another.

Bathroom Renovation Electrical Costs in Melbourne

Electrical costs vary significantly depending on the scope of your renovation. A straightforward like-for-like refit (same number of lights, same switch positions) is at the lower end. A complete redesign with underfloor heating, new circuits, and a switchboard upgrade is at the higher end.

Basic bathroom refit (like-for-like replacement): $800 to $1,500. Replacing existing fittings, adding RCD protection if not already present, and issuing a Certificate of Electrical Safety.

Standard renovation (new layout, additional circuits): $1,500 to $3,000. New lighting layout (typically 3-5 LED downlights), exhaust fan, two power points, heated towel rail connection, new switches, and all cabling.

Full renovation with underfloor heating: $2,500 to $4,500. Everything above plus underfloor heating connection, thermostat, Tastic/heat lamp circuit, illuminated mirror connection, and potentially a switchboard upgrade.

Switchboard upgrade (if required): $1,200 to $2,500 additional. See our switchboard replacement cost guide for a detailed breakdown.

We provide a fixed-price quote after an on-site assessment, so you know exactly what the electrical component of your renovation will cost before any work begins.

Electrical Challenges in Melbourne Bathroom Renovations

Melbourne’s housing stock presents specific electrical challenges during bathroom renovations. Period homes in suburbs like Hawthorn, Kew, and Malvern often have original wiring that needs to be completely replaced when the bathroom walls are opened up. If we find deteriorated wiring during a bathroom renovation, we always flag it and recommend a broader assessment. Our house rewiring service covers full and partial rewires.

In apartments across Melbourne’s inner suburbs, strata regulations can affect what electrical work is permitted. The switchboard may be in a common area, and body corporate approval may be needed for additional circuits. We work with property managers and strata committees regularly and can help navigate these requirements. See our strata electrical services for more information.

Older homes with ceramic fuses or small switchboards almost always need a switchboard upgrade as part of a bathroom renovation. The additional load from modern bathroom fixtures cannot be safely supported by a switchboard that was designed for a house with one light and one power point per room.

Bathroom Renovation Electrical FAQs

Can I have a power point inside the shower zone?

No. Power points cannot be installed in Zone 0 (inside the shower or bath) or Zone 1 (within 1.2 metres of the shower or bath). This is a strict requirement under AS/NZS 3000. Power points must be positioned in Zone 2 or beyond, at least 300mm above floor level, and protected by an RCD.

Do I need a permit for bathroom electrical work?

You do not need a separate electrical permit, but your electrician must hold a current electrical licence and will issue a Certificate of Electrical Safety (COES) for all prescribed electrical work. This certificate is lodged with Energy Safe Victoria. Your builder may need a building permit for the overall renovation depending on the scope of work.

Can I keep using the bathroom between the first fix and second fix?

No. Once demolition begins, the bathroom is out of commission until the renovation is complete. The waterproofing, tiling, and electrical work cannot be interrupted. Most Melbourne bathroom renovations take 2 to 4 weeks from demolition to completion, depending on the scope and the availability of trades.

Should I upgrade my switchboard during a bathroom renovation?

If your switchboard uses ceramic fuses, has limited spare capacity, or is over 25 years old, a bathroom renovation is an excellent time to upgrade. You are already paying for an electrician to be on site, and the additional circuits for underfloor heating, heated towel rails, and modern lighting often require more switchboard capacity than is available.

What IP rating do bathroom lights need?

In Zone 1 (directly above the shower or bath, up to 2.25m height), light fittings must be rated IPX4 or higher. In Zone 2 (1.2m to 3m from the shower), IPX4 is also recommended. Outside these zones, standard IP-rated fittings are acceptable, though we recommend moisture-resistant fittings throughout any bathroom.

How do I coordinate the electrician with other trades?

The typical sequence is: demolition, then plumber rough-in and electrician rough-in (these can often happen on the same day), then waterproofing, then tiling, then painting, then electrician fit-off and plumber fit-off. We coordinate directly with your builder or project manager and are flexible with scheduling to keep your renovation on track.

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